Il tempo volo . . . time flies!

It seems fitting to post a new blog entry that deals with time, having taken so much of it off from this blog recently. Of course, a moving has been know to disrupt a thing or two. Hopefully this can mark a fresh start...
While the painting was not done with 'time' in mind, it seems like a fitting way to view it. The obvious reason - Big Ben front and center - is possibly the worlds most famous clock, although I didn't reference it once for time during my trip to London last year. A second time reference is the inclusion of The Eye in the image - who joined the London skyline just a short time ago (in city years). Finally, the colors in the sky can start to suggest time of day - in this case dusk, my favorite time to capture an image. Thanks for coming to the blog - have a nice time!

Recent Paintings

Happy Spring

Cartoceto, Italy

Passing through the main piazza at street level, you enter the narrow passageways that form the organic plan of the historic center. The multiple levels that climb the hill along side the grids of olive trees are linked together by a wide stair that follows the jagged outline of the medieval wall. The stair has one of the longest runs in the area, offering multiple access points into the small center as well as views to the west and south.

Welcome Arianna!!

born 18 February 2008
Fano, Italy

Fano Horizon

While they lack the character of the cabins they replaced, the fisherman huts that sit along the pier in Fano do offer a rhythmic break to the flat horizon of the Adriatic. I have never actually seen them in action, so to speak, while the giant mast and system of guide wires suggest it may actually drop to the water and sail off one of these days. My thinking is that these sculptures on the horizon can be equated to tree houses, housing the 'fishermen' who head out for some 'fishing' but really just need to get out of the house and play a little briscola with his pals. The only thing missing is a sign saying "No Girls Allowed!"

Winter Fields

Waking up to a nice surprise - snow - made me appreciate the fact that I had recently painted the image above. The winter months here offer an amazing range of colors in the surrounding hills, as most have been tilled and seeded in November for the following spring. The dark, freshly ground earth gives way to a lighter, sun-dried beige color - although patches of dark tend to remain. The landscape itself becomes a watercolor image, offering a layers of color on the hills in stark contrast with the light blue winter sky. As I write this, the fresh layer of white is fading away to reveal once more the winter palette underneath.

Prints of this image are now available here: http://shdesign.imagekind.com/

Urbino and scale

Urbino sits nestled in the hilly interior of northern Le Marche, a Renaissance gem surrounded by medieval hamlets. The town offers a series of hilly passages, flat squares and is home to the incredible Duke's Palace, a true architectural masterpiece. The human scale found within the palace interior and courtyards seem to extend into the town planning to create one of the most remarkable places in Italy. Bring your walking shoes if you do visit - while the scale of the town is very pedestrian, the Italian word "scale" (which means stair) is also a dominant feature and the climbs add an element of adventure to the walks.

Signs if Life

Passing through some of the smaller towns and villages in the area, it sometimes seems that you are visiting a museum or exhibit on how life was several centuries ago. The streets are often bare, the sounds are often faint and hard to track down - the only signs of life are the peeks into the open windows, into the living spaces behind the historic facades. Depending on both the time of day and time of year, the amount of 'open' will vary as far as the multi-layered wall openings are concerned. The Italian shutter has been refined over the centuries to open just enough to accommodate the need for air and light to please any resident, while providing even more interest to the texture of the streetscape.

Le Marche meets Imagekind

I have created an online gallery of prints available for purchase at Imagekind.com! The images are available in a selection of sizes, paper types (I recommend Somerset Velvet), framed or unframed and even on canvas. You can view the gallery HERE or click the link in the sidebar.

Fano Blues

This view of the beach zone called Lido in Fano offers a nice contrast not typically seen at a beach. The brick facades of the row houses that serve as a backdrop to the sea and sand offer a reminder that the historic fabric of the walled center of town has related fragments stretching to the waterfront - historically an important part of Fano's character. The blues of the sea, sky and umbrellas gain strength against the earth tones of the architecture, sand and rolling hills just a few miles inland.
A recent renovation of the central residence in the historic backdrop has brought 'the blues' to several neighbors, who have taken legal action - extending the misery to the homeowners for choosing yet another shade of blue for their facade. I am a supporter of expressing your creativity in most cases, but this seems to lack any relevance - historically or artistically - perhaps an idea that just came out of the blue!

On the beaten path

With so many small villages tucked in the surrounding hills, it is easy to miss certain elements of the small town we live in. Each day I walk a similar route to drop off my daughter at daycare and stop in for a cafe macchiato downtown, usually as fast as possible in order to get back to the pile of paper on my desk. With my trekking companion now entering her "what's that?" stage, the walks have become more of a journey of discovery. I like to think that I am somewhat observant of my surroundings and can generally see the beauty in the most banal of environments, but these walks have taken this to a new level. The simple act of crossing the old tracks, that once offered commuter service from Fano to Urbino, has turned into stories of history and nature - reminding me of my excursions during my childhood along the abandoned tracks near my home. It was during these walks that I really began to look at this house that sits along the Main Street in town - which is also the Roman road Via Flaminia. The house seems to be one the town elders and has a character that can only come with years of weathering and lack of attention - although it has recently caught my eye.

Fano Art Fair cont.

Sales have been pretty good for June, lets hope they continue for August. Here are some of the paintings that have been sold during the 'Fano at Night' program. Planning a visit to Fano? I am displaying along Corso Matteotti adjacent to Piazza Amiani - see you there!

First Prize

Yesterday was the annual 'painter for a day' contest in Fano - where competitors pick up a sheet of watercolor paper or a canvas at 9:00 am and return at 5:00 pm with a finished painting depicting Fano's coastline of historic center. After a dinner break and jury review, the award ceremony is held and this year my watercolor of the main piazza took top prize! Yahoo!

Fano dei Cesari

This past weekend Fano hosted its annual festival called Fano dei Cesari, a celebration of its Roman roots. The 4 day festival reaches its high point on the final day when the 6 zones of Fano take part in a chariot race. It is amazing to see how a town can be transformed to host an event such as this, an event similar to the famous Palio di Siena. Lawyers, bankers, doctors and even the mayor dig deep into their wardrobes for the festival and dust off the toga or gladiator gear tucked deep inside adding some authenticity to the reenactment - although the true authenticity is the nearly 2000 year old Arch of Augustus acting as the primary backdrop for the event.

Fano Art Fair

The historic center of Fano began its 2 month stretch of extending the hours of operation of most of the historic center shops and cafes until 11 pm on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. July and August are the high tourism months and the center is full of energy. As part of the street activity, local artisans are invited to display their work/products along the main route through town. I am taking part this year, displaying some of my watercolors (for the first time) and have just completed the first week of the 8-week stretch. I picked a spot near some veterans of the art fair world to try to pick up some pointers on display tactics and lighting. While the aim is to sell some work, I really enjoy the people watching and Fano is an ideal place for after-dinner walks through the center.

Grapevine

Stopping by my father-in-law's house over the weekend he had pointed out that the grapes are about a month ahead of schedule this year and should be ready for snacking on in about two weeks. The vine itself, however, caught my attention more than the news of the shifting schedule for maturation - the wild trunk twisting and shifting its way up to the support bars suggesting the trunk itself has little strength and has been deformed by gravity over time. Many summer meals have been shared beneath the foliage, with dessert an arms length away. Driving back through the rolling hills just a few minutes away, the rigid lines of vines seen in the distance, being cultivated for local wine makers, offer a stark contrast to the vines themselves once seen up close.

Vacation sketches

Having returned from 2 weeks in the US, back to the 90 degree weather here in Italy, I have finally had a chance to put some images together from the trip. This was a rather busy trip, with time spent in Boston, Cape Cod and Philadelphia.
The major part of the first week was down in the Chestnut Hill area of Philadelphia for my sisters wedding. The section of Philly is beautiful and seems very livable for being so close to a major city. The area has a strong architectural character and a nice balance of green space. The wedding took place at the Valley Green Inn, which sits along an old access road, now a jogging/walking/bike path that seems to be the spot for the locals to fish, exercise and spy a wedding or two each weekend. Near the inn is a beautifully preserved covered bridge that offers a nice contrast with its barn red siding cutting through the green backdrop.
Passing through Boston on the way to Cape Cod allowed for a quick visit to the new ICA museum along the waterfront in the ever-changing Fort Point Channel district. The design is a nice addition to the city and the waterfront - although until the surrounding area is completed it looks a little strange from the land side.
Cape Cod is always nice, especially with Matilde in tow. Seeing her play in the tide pools was a special treat.
One strange thing was that this trip seemed to have an odd theme. Everywhere we went, there seemed to be turtles involved. On our second day back, one strolled into the scene of our cookout to entertain the kids, the bed and breakfast in Philly had several for lawn ornaments and when we arrived at the Cape there was one hanging out in the yard. If turtles symbolize determination, this seemed to be a fitting theme for such a busy 15 days.

Cartoceto, Italy

During a visit to Cartoceto over the weekend to enjoy their vincisgrassi (lasagna) festival, I noticed the pathway to the church that I keep passing when I visit - but have never painted. The late afternoon light fighting through the arriving storm clouds brought out the highlights in the trees forming the pathway. Under normal circumstances, I would have found a nice location to sit and draw, but with the idea of them running out of the main ingredient of the evening while I was off doodling made me reconsider. Luckily I had my camera!

Fano Port Canal

View from a very narrow bridge crossing the canal that connects the Lido beach area to the Port and the Sassonia beach area. In the distance are the fishermen cabins that have been renovated (poorly, if you ask me) and have lost much of the character that the originals had - at least from what I could get from the historic photos.

No Parking, unless you have a good reason...

Italian Parking Rules:
1. If you are in a rush, you are free to park wherever/however you wish.
2. Crossing 2 lanes of traffic to parallel park along the opposite side of the street is acceptable, in fact you would be crazy to not take the open spot.
3. Drivers of either Fiat 500 or Smart cars are encouraged to park perpendicular to curb - to save space and impress bystanders.
4. The sidewalk is fair game (see #1)

Signs of Summer

The wide open waterfront along the Adriatic begins to transform each spring, as orchards of umbrellas are planted in careful grids, each bagnino (part-lifeguard/part-concierge) preparing for summer. As the warm weather rolls in, and time permits, the seasonal owners begin to find their spot for the season and the umbrellas begin to bloom.
We have yet to 'rent' a space for the season, as prices can go from 400 - 800 euro per season, and sometimes higher. We typically settle for a couple towels and head to the free beach area, which is right next door actually. Of course with a soon-to-be-14 month old, it may be time to find our own little beach flower to help store all the beach toys we are accumulating.

A Watercolor Journey Through Le Marche, The Province of Pesaro and Urbino

After moving to Italy in 2004, I began drawing & painting as a way to help see and discover my new surroundings. During that time I also began this weblog, to act as both a tool for organizing the drawings and also sharing them with other people interested in this region, in Italy, in drawing or who happen to just stumble across my site. This book is a compilation of many of these drawings, some which have been posted here and others not, and is my attempt to offer a glimpse into this beautiful region and the towns that have seen few tourists. You can find out more about the book here.

Green with Luck

The fountain in Piazza XX Settembre in Fano has, as its centerpiece, Fortuna scultped out of copper - a copy of the original is in the museum behind the piazza. The orginal maintains its original copper color, while #2 has developed a green patina that I like so much about copper. An especially nice effect is when it begins to seep into the materials below, stone in this case, creating sort of roots that tie the two materials together only through years of contact.

Italian Neighbors

I had read Italian Neighbors by Tim Parks prior to our move to Italy three years ago, which has become a sort of reference manual for coping with some of the many oddities that seem to fold themslves into everyday Italian life in a small town (or just Italian life in general). As described in the book, the things that happen here are things that happen everywhere - for the most part- a noisy pet next door, a line at the post office, attending the condominium meeting - although here there is something different about them . . . something Italian. I have racked my brain in trying to figure out what is so unique about the Italian daily life and it seems that it is the fact that nothing is taken at face value. A law is wirtten, but is not expected to be followed. You can no longer smoke in the cafe, but what defines 'in'? Standing in the doorway as to not miss the soccer game or the heated debate about last game while puffing away is pretty much outside. If the line in the grocery store is too long, then just go stand at the next register over and demand they open that one too, while everyone from the line next door makes a mad rush to be second. The traffic light is red, but it's Sunday at lunchtime and who is on the roads now? It is not that red. So, as I keep reminding my wife (who is from here), you can't try to understand it - just go with the flow.
Like our neighbor always says, "tanto, la vita e' cosi" - that's the way life goes.

Corinaldo, Le Marche

Side gate to historic center

Fano - citta della fortuna

Know in ancient times as Fanum Fortunae, refering the Temple of Fortuna once located in the center of the city, Fano today offers glimpses of its complicated history for those willing to take the time to look. The coat of arms illustrated above is located in the Corte Malatestiana built under the ruling Maletesta family in the 14th century. Serving as an endpoint to the Via Flaminia from Rome, evidence of Roman occupation dating back to 9 AD are still intact and intergrated into the fabric of the center offering a nice backdrop for an evening passeggiata.

Green Man

Looking closely at the ornate detailing of a Renaissance church like the Santa Maria Novella in Orciano, Italy, you just might find someone looking back. Hidden within the surrounding foliage, at the columns capital in this case, the small sculpted face is what's called a green man. They are used in many cultures for many reasons, although a common theme is a link to nature, life and rebirth - which makes it a fitting attribute to the Renaissance detailing. It is one of those things that once you start to look for, you will be surprised how many you will find.... that feeling of always being watched could be right on!

Happy Spring

Happy Spring, Think Green

Festa!

April 01, 2007 :
It was a big day for celebrations here in Calcinelli today, with our little Matilde turning 1 and the town hosting their Festa della Primavera (Spring festival). Although it still felt like winter was hanging around, the sensation of a giant birthday party for our daughter made it all the more enjoyable. It always impresses me the many functions of the 'piazza' here in Italy, normally central parking in the center of our town - but easily accomodating a giant slide, bumper cars, trampolines, swings and a small stage for some local music. Another thing that impresses me is how smart a one year old is. Within the last two weeks she has picked up walking (max. about 6 feet), waving and saying ciao-ciao and blowing a kiss (those of you on Lufthansa Flight 422 last Monday can testify to that). She has provided us with 365 days of enjoyment and is a big hit in our little town here (partly because she's 50% American, but mostly because she is bellissima) Buon Compleanno & Happy Birthday Mati!
Happy Spring too.